Montefioralle is an ancient walled village rated one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and a 20 minute walk from Greve.











The village of Montefioralle is probably one of the oldest Chianti. A charming photo stop in Chianti - worth the short walk.   These were initially two circuits but houses now fill the space between the original structures. The walls were octagonal in outline, with four gates, modifications of which still exist. When you leave Greve, head towards

There are some lovely properties to rent in this area, small one and two bedroom cottages with views onto this lovely village, or large villas with lovely view and terraces. Details to be posted later. Meanwhile check with www.classicvacationrental.com at info@classicvacationrental.com.

Driving in Italy - helpful hints - Limited (Restricted) Traffic Zones  

Driving in Florence has become a real problem. After many years of driving into Florence to return rental cars or simply to spend part of the day in the town, it is now nearly impossible to drive in as a non local without getting a ticket for who knows what infraction.  I recently received 3 tickets over a short period of time ( I suppose they just located me) for tickets ranging from 6 months to 12 months old. When coming from the south especially - which is where most of us would arrive from, even if you know that entering the Porta Romana and taking the direct route across the Arno rive to the Borgo Ognissanti ( where most car rental agencies ( except Hertz0 are located - you are bound to get a ticket; The first reason is likely driving through what is called a ZTL -  or zones in which only residents can drive. The signs are tiny and not easily seen - and what the heck do the letters ZTL mean to a non-local? Money grab... by all accounts - when I discussed this with my local contacts - ranging from apartment owners to manager of 5 star hotels - they all felt it was a very anti-tourist move and strictly a money grab on the part of the Municpality of Florence.





In Florence and  many other towns in Tuscany there are a number of  zones covering the historical and hotel district where only cars with special permits  may enter.  Rental cars typically do not  have these permits.  Clients must ensure they either get a special permit from the hotel , or make sure that the hotel provides their license details to the proper authorities.



Here are bits of interesting and I hope helpful information - collected from experience and various sources to help



Limited (Restricted) Traffic Zones   -  ZTL   (Zona a Traffico Limitato)   are a problem. These zones are areas where cars with special permits only  are allowed to drive and are found in many Italian cities and towns. The signs are present at the limits of the zones but not within them, so that if you miss the sign you don't get a second chance. In addition, they sometimes apply only to certain hours on working days. Pisa is notoriously tricky - I recommend not driving in the city centre of Pisa at all.  In Florence it is crucial to be aware of the ZTL signs and restrictions. Failure to abide by the rules will cost 80 euros or more each time you enter one of these areas. 



Official instructions for Florence ZTL from the official Florence Commune site:



ZTL Traffic Restricted Zone

The entire historic center of Florence (generally speaking the part located within the 19th century ring-roads which is a protected ‘UNESCO Heritage Site’) is a “zona a traffico limitato” (ZTL) or restricted traffic zone.  Special rules govern access to, as well as transit and parking in this zone.

Non-residents are prohibited from driving and parking within the ZTL at the following times:
- on weekdays (mondays through fridays): from 7.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. On saturdays: from 7,30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

- and (from 17 May to 31 October 2009) also on friday, saturday and sunday night (from 00,00 to 4 a.m. 

The boundaries of the ZTL are marked by special road signs and have a series of ‘access points’ which are controlled by cameras that automatically detect the number plates of all the vehicles passing through.  Transit through some of the ‘access points’ (those reserved exclusively for public transport and emergency vehicles), is prohibited at all times, 24/7.

Tourists in cars who need to travel within the ZTL to reach their accommodation facilities or a garage can obtain a temporary access permit, although they should still pass through the authorized ‘access points’ only, excluding the lanes reserved for public transport and the pedestrian zones which may not be used at any time.  In order to obtain this permit, the number plate of the car concerned should be given to the relevant hotel (or garage) which will undertake to forward the same to the appropriate office.
This permit will be issued for a maximum of two hours for baggage transport purposes and, therefore, only on the arrival and departure dates (a permit may also be issued to tourists without a hotel booking entering the ZTL to find accommodation).  For the rest of their stay, clients should park their car outside the ZTL, in a commercial garage or the hotel’s own private garage.

Disabled permit holders who need to enter the restricted traffic zone (ZTL) with their vehicle should call the toll-free number 800 339891

In addition to private residents’ vehicles, bicycles, motorcycles and mopeds may access the ZTL  (for electric vehicles: info 05540401)
Outside the ZTL, the city is divided into ZCS zones (“zona a controllo sosta” - controlled parking zones), where non-residents may park in the blue marked spaces using the pay and display facilities (the white marked spaces are for residents only), or in the various car parks.  
In the “Parterre” (Piazza Libertà), “Oltrarno” (Porta Romana), “Beccaria” and “Fortezza Fiera” (Fortezza da Basso) car parks, daily and night-time tariffs are available at concessionary rates.



 For further information on car parks and public/private transport:

Florence Parking

Firenze Parcheggi

tel. 055 2720160

www.firenzeparcheggi.it

SAS

tel. 055 374277

www.saspa.it

Muoversi a Firenze



www.muoversiafirenze.it

 

Link Utili / Useful Links

    •    Pianta ZTL / Map of the restricted traffic zone





**************************************************************



You are able to drive to a hotel or some of the apartments we work with - or to specific parking garages - but it is VITAL that you have the hotel and/or garage or apartment manger provide your license plate number to the correct authorities. Make sure that you have them do this - and follow up. Generally now, my advice is not to drive in Florence - despite the hassle, I now recommend you drop your rental car at the airport ( Florence or whichever town you are dropping off) and pay the taxi fare - it is far cheaper than the very expensive traffic tickets ( my tickets were between €80 -  €110 per ticket!) if you are coming in for a day visit - either park outside this area ( for example Piazza Michelangelo - and walk to the historic centre - or take the local bus or a taxi); or use one of the parking houses mentioned on the web links above. Don't even try for the parking house near the train station - unless you are very careful, one of my tickets was for driving in a wrong lane! 

write me if you have anything to add... or any tricks you have found for getting around this

I just found this amazing website - it's  called Arounder and it contains a selection of great 360° views of a lot of cities.

There are amazing 360° views of Florence. The Virtual Tour of the Duomo square is as if you were there. Look at Pisa too   The virtual tour of Piazza dei Miracoli at dusk is incredible. That’s when the piazza is at its best: so quiet and romantic!  There are also virtual tours of other Italian cities, like Rome, Milan, Venice, Parma, Turin and Verona. A great way to remember your visit to Italy, or make plans for meeting on the square when there.

If you've ever read stories about Chianti - or articles in magazines about Italy you will have heard about Dario Cecchini - the singing butcher of Panzano. I have just finished a wonderful book - HEAT - by Bill Buford, describing his adventure about becoming a cook in a professional kitchen.  To really learn about food - he is sent to Italy, to really learn about meat he is sent to the hill town of Chianti where he is tutored in th art of butchery by Italy's most famous butcher. His descriptions leave you with Fellini-esque images - imagine this scene as Buford arrives for the first time ..."Dario's butcher sho, the macelleria, was on a steep street next to the post office.  Actually it was two shops joined together.  ...The upper shop, where the wares were displayed were impossible to get into.  there was a crush of people: inside, in the doorway, on th sidewalk, spilling into the street.  Ho mnay? A hundred? more? Someone had a television camera on his shoulder. There were flashing bulbs.  I could heard loud choral music of what I though might be Mozart's "Requiem." ( Why  a requiem? then again, it's a butcher's shop: why not a requiem?) I pushed my way in.  Everyone seemed to be holding a glass of red wine..."(p.217 HEAT)...and so Buford learns about meat - the bifstecca Fiorentina, the legendary Florentine steak - weighng about 5 pounds, is 5 - 6 inches thick and costs over $100! per piece. I have had it served in the most wonderful ways - I love this steak served 'tagliatta' with balsamico - which means sliced in balsamic vinegar.



Here's a wonderful recipe from the "Passionate cook"

Tagliata di manzo

(serves 2 VERY hungry people or 3 with a healthier attitude towards life)



600 g best quality beef fillet

3 tbsp olive oil

fleur de sel

freshly crushed black pepper

100 g parmesan (shavings)

50 g rocket salad ( ruccula)

balsamic vinegar



Clean the fillet and cut into 1 cm slices. Preheat the oven to 250 C or turn on the grill.



Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and cook until browning on the bottom and until the edges start turning white on top (This should take approximately 2-3 minutes). Transfer to (oven-proof) plates, season with the salt and pepper and arrange the parmesan shavings on top.



Put in the oven for another 2-3 minutes, the meat should still be red on top. Pile the rocket on top and sprinkle generously with balsamic vinegar.



Serve immediately with some crusty ciabatta.





The great thing about Buford's book is that along with these passionate characters and movie scene events - there is a wonderful history of the Chianti and Panzano specifically.  You get to know the people, the valleys and vineyards, the eccentrics, the contadini and the nobles... If you want to really experience these - ClassicVacationRental.com has some lovely villas in this area.





One that immediately comes to mind, since we are on this food theme is villa Emma - the beautiful restored farmhouse that Anthony Bourdain used for his Television series on Italy.  This villa can accomodate from 12 - 18 people.  The main villa has 6 bedrooms, each with bathroom, a lovley large kitchen for cooking, the cottages can sleep another 6  ( villa can be rented without the cottages).  This vllla also forms part of our Fully hosted villa program - with host, wonderful tuscan meals, cooking classes and more...











Another - on a boutique wine estate - is the Villa Panzano - set amidst the vineyards near Panzano with its infinity edge pool  - this 5 bedroom villa is the ideal place from which to explore the wines and food of Chianti -











But there are many more properties - also for smaller groups - why not email ClassicVacationRental.com at info@classicvacationrental.com