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Diary of a Trip: April in Italy
Early April. This spring was an opportune time to travel to Italy
and do
some research on vacation properties. British Airways had a sale
that was
effective until the 21st of April - $497 round trip to Rome from
Los
Angeles. We grabbed it!
Arriving on the 4th of April, our Mercedes sedan picked us up at
Leonardo
da Vinci Airport and whisked our tired, jet-lagged bodies to the
hotel. We
were lucky we had a limousine company
in Rome that offers airport pickups
and city tours, and their prices are comparable to a taxi. An added
advantage did not have to deal with the hordes of taxi drivers that
meet
you as you emerge from the terminal, your mind dulled by an all
night
flight. Our destination for several nights in Rome was the Due Torri
Hotel, in the centro storico, the ancient section of the city.
This area, between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and the Tiber
River, is not the tourist mecca that the Spanish Steps area is.
All the better. You get Rome more to yourself, and don't have to
share it with the throngs of tourists that descend upon the city
from late March to October. This is where the antique This area
is also very residential, so you can watch the comings and goings
of the locals as they go to markets, cafes, bakeries and meat shops.
Here
also are some very fine restaurants that specialize in traditional
Roman
cooking.
April 5th.
The Due Torri
is a small, ancient hotel, and one has to be willing to sacrifice
a little, to take a step back in time. A quaint three star hotel,
some of its rooms are pretty high end, although others are small
and have an unusual collection of old furniture.  The
beds were very comfortable; the bathrooms acceptable by American
standards and the staff at the front desk
were particularly helpful. The hotel was at one time a monastery,
and at another times a brothel. Hidden away in the winding alleys
of the city, it was a good beginning for our trip. Although this
was a business trip, there were several tourist things on my list
of "to do's", things that were left undone from past trips.
April 6th.
For many years I have wanted to climb to the top of St. Peter's
Dome, and also have wanted to visit the "morning market"
at the Campo dei Fiori.
The restoration of Neros' house is nearing completion and that
was another item
on my list. Just before we arrived in April, a new law was passed
in Rome,
requiring scooter and cycle drivers to wear helmets, or face a strong
penalty. Rome has a very high traffic fatality rate (the highest
in
Europe), and this was a law whose time was coming. This was quite
a boon
for the sellers of helmets, given the many scooters in the city.
There was
a lot of grumbling, but they all seemed to fall in line rather than
face
the consequences. Strange to see the Romans wearing helmets, especially
the gorgeous women - helmets with high heels! Now the pedestrians
have to be even more cautious, since the drivers are protected now,
and the danger is yours if you do not jump out of the way when they
zip around the corner, and catch you scurrying into some small street
or alley.
April 7
Today our schedule consisted of inspecting apartments near the
Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus and the Spanish Steps area. We
met the
owner, who is part of the Italian aristocracy, and his Dutch wife.
True to
what many of the old aristocracy are doing these days, they own
several
properties in Italy, and rent most of them out. Their villa in Rome,
overlooking the Circus Maximus and the Palatine Hill, with all its
ruins,
had a view of the setting sun. It was overwhelming.
She invited us for homemade minestrone and a light supper. There
we were sitting in her villa, looking out at the glowing Palatine
Hill and its ruins from one window and St. Peter's in the distance
from the other window on the wall was a large original fresco depicting
that of St. Francis accepting the stigmata from an angel. We were
completely in awe. (The Italian government requires that they inspect
this fresco once a year to insure that it is properly cared
for.) Anyway, that was one of the many high points in an exceptional
trip.
The owner has two
charming apartments in the back of her villa and also near the
Roman Forum. She has a penthouse with a beautiful roof garden near
the Piazza Di Spagna and on via
Frattina she has a lovely, centrally located three-bedroom apartment.
They also have a small villa on Capri.
April 8
 Today
we had tea with the owner of one of the most
famous hotels
in Rome. A lovely older woman who had to take over the business
when her husband suddenly died brought the hotel property to greatness
with her shrewd business sense. We visit her when in Rome, as we
represent several city and country properties that she also owns.
While we were taking tea the president of Oman checked into the
hotel with his large contingent of police and guards that followed
him everywhere! Obviously, the rich and famous know the good spots
also! Dinnertonight was wonderful at Ristorante La Campana, Viccolo
della Campana, close to our hotel, and not easy to find, but full
of locals. These locals add an ambiance and make this place highly
recommended with midrange prices. Before we depart Rome, another
good place to go for supper is the "Wine Bar." There are
many in Italy, and a very good way to end the day with a light supper
and a good selection of Italy's wines. Cul de Sac is just past the
Piazza Navona going away from the Pantheon. It is a lively wine
bar, with good food and wonderful atmosphere.
April 9
On to Florence! We took the Eurostar,
which was fast and comfortable. Here we are staying in a hotel in
the shadow of the Duomo and are fortunate to enjoy the hourly ringing
of the bells.
 Not
enough time to do any tourist things,( except of course Gelato!)
since we are busy with meetings and trying to decide which villas,
castles and farms we will inspect in Tuscany.
We did have dinner at a wonderful mid-priced restaurant, which
was very close to the Duomo. We would highly recommend it. Trattoria
Il Caminetto, at Via dello Studio. Another great find for lunch
would be the Trattoria Da Ginone,Via dei Serragli 35, across the
Ponte Vecchio from the city, in in area where many locals live.
In Italy, a sure sign of a quality restaurant is an abundance of
locals. The prices were very reasonable too. Now you know why I
gained 5 pounds on this trip!!!
April 10
After picking up our rental car, we head out to Chianti to visit
Castello
di Volpaia. The medieval charm of this village attests to its success
at
concealing any sign of the modern world. Behind the walls of its
13th-century church sit gleaming silver tanks brimming with wine
and around
the corner, behind unmarked doors, a state-of-the-art olive press.
This is
a part of Italy few in the States ever see. We are very fortunate
to have
some excellent apartments here, as well as two lovely restored
country houses.
This is wine country. Here we inspect some of the apartments that
have been built within the old stonewalls of the ancient fortifications,
as well as the two country houses - one built for the owner of Tiffany's.
A lovely spot, with views through the cypress of vineyards and olive
trees. Their wine
is highly renowned.
To be continued!
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